A loose biography of surfer and documentarist George Greenough, one of the most famous and unique members of the surfing subculture.A loose biography of surfer and documentarist George Greenough, one of the most famous and unique members of the surfing subculture.A loose biography of surfer and documentarist George Greenough, one of the most famous and unique members of the surfing subculture.
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- TriviaThis picture was one of fifty Australian films selected for preservation as part of the National Film and Sound Archive of Australia's Kodak / Atlab Cinema Collection Restoration Project.
- Quotes
George Greenough: You might be in there for only a few seconds---in real time---but in your head it goes on for hours. It is an experience that's hard to describe, riding inside of a big, grinding wave. Often you're riding so deep inside the tube, you don't make it out. You take a terrible wipe out. What matters is when you're in there, it's the time interval when you're inside the wave. Time enters space, a zone of its own. The only reality is what's happening right then.
- ConnectionsFeatured in Echoes (1973)
It is part home movie about an amazingly dull fellow, made duller by his voice-over narration. Hey, he's a surfer who makes his own surfboards and boats according to the most improbable criteria. We see him smelt lead in a way that would kill any brain.
It is part documentary of surf photography. There's a sequence where our hero is hired as a surf photographer for some movie or TeeVee show. A huge opportunity is missed when we don't get to learn what it is or see any of it. This would have been fantastic.
The final part after we see the guys sailing off on an adventure in an amateurish home movie section is a collage of POV wave shots without the surfers we've been burdened with up this point. It has apt music, unlicensed I'm sure, and is utterly hypnotic. Some other commenter has compared this sequence to "Koyaanisqatsi." That film to my mind is unctuous pandering, elevator cinema worthy of burning. This sequence is far better for a few reasons. It is pure water, more genuinely cinematic than what Reggio displays. And though the setting of the context tries our patience, we do have a context. Since the photographer seems so dumb, we feel that an hour is all it takes to know absolutely everything about him. I know him better than my own wife. We know about the camera. We know how he made even the surfboard the camera is mounted on (which we don't see). That context makes this visual poetry real.
Ted's Evaluation -- 3 of 3: Worth watching.
- tedg
- Mar 3, 2005
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- クリスタル・ボイジャー
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